Hi everyone, here's what I've been doing with my insomnia lately in case anyone's interested.

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Playing Dress-Up Khmer Style for Some Good Laughs and Great Fun

Bring out your inner "Apsara" while playing dress-up in traditional Khmer clothing. You can be queen for a day (or at least a couple hours) while an entourage of makeup artists and hair stylists apply layers, layers and more layers of makeup, including giant fake eyelashes and an artificial stick-on "eyelid crease." Next comes the fake hairpiece, and once they have deemed you picture perfect, they will help you into the colorful costume of your choice.

After adorning you with about 15 pounds of fake gold or silver jewelry including a giant tiara, you will be led into the photo studio where a photographer will pinch, prod and push you into just the right position.



This is the perfect outing if you are looking for some good laughs and over-the-top fun with your girlfriends. They have equally ridiculous options for the fellas in your posse, minus the makeup. Your glamor shots will be ready in a few days after they have digitally inserted you into a luxurious villa interior. Be prepared for a bit of a shock, as they photo-shop their subjects until almost unrecognizable. It takes twenty minutes to scrub all that awful makeup off, but the laughs and tacky-but-fun photos are worth it!

Something like this will set you back up to $15 for a nice place with quite a few photos, or just a couple of bucks at smaller joint for one or two photos. This is one of the greatest memory makers you can do with a group of friends, or a great alternative for your next family photo Christmas card!

Shopping for Cane, Wicker and Rattan Furniture in Phnom Penh

I’ve had quite a few people here ask me over this past year where to buy cane furniture and what the “going rate” of certain items are, so I thought I’d go ahead and share my own experience. I bought all my stuff around May of 2008 and a few things since then, so prices may have gone up or down a bit since.
The place I went, which I am told has the best prices and the most options by far, is called “Cham Kar Mon” and consists of about 15 shops all lined up in a row on Mao Tse Tung St. right after it crosses Norodom Blvd, immediately after crossing, on the right hand side.

You can find all sorts of cool stuff here, including the great big round “Papa San” chairs, mini round chairs, rocking chairs, any other sort of chair, living room sets, desks, wardrobes, bed frames, dining table sets, drawers and shelves, shoe racks, room dividers, lamps, magazine racks, floor mats, patio furniture, tons of other fun stuff, and have any design of yours custom ordered for about the same price as something comparable on offer.

I purchased a cute living room set (a couch, two chairs, and a coffee table) which included the cushions, for $120. I picked up a few room screens at $30 each, if I remember right (the big, 4 panel ones). My small round patio table for 2 persons cost about $25, and each chair for it was $9. My wardrobe, which has a full length mirror, and is the biggest one I could find, cost about $65, and a dining room hutch with a pretty arched top and some good storage was also $65. A small, basic desk with one drawer and one storage compartment cost $25, not including the chair. A tall bookshelf was…if I remember right…$10 or $15. My magazine rack, the second from the tallest one (or maybe it was the tallest one?) which is a tiered style with scrolled iron detail, was $15. The two mini round chairs were $8 each, I’m pretty sure (not including the cushions). The low table was $9. My dining table was $65, not including chairs…chairs range from $6 to $20 and up, depending on style. I had a custom made piece to fit a very weird spot in my kitchen to hold my mini electric oven and baking stuff, for $25. A very small chest of drawers that could double up as a nightstand will cost you less than $10. A water filter stand was around $5.
Like I said, these prices may or may not still be accurate, since this was all around May of 2008 but it shouldn’t be too far off.

A note about the dining table selection process…make sure you try before you buy! I spotted mine under a pile of other tables, and behind a pile of tables…it made it impossible to try sitting at it to check the practicality of the design, and since I am accustomed to living in America and not needing to worry about such things, I just pointed and said “that one.” I got it home and realized that the pretty lattice arch piece attached to the legs, bumps into everyone’s knees and makes it impossible to pull a chair fully under it. A complete waste of money, unless I take off the arch lattice pieces which is the only reason I bought it to begin with.

Regarding bargaining here, it's not the same as, say, Psar Toul Tum Pong...as in, you can bargain down by about 10% or 20% but that's about it(vs. Toul Tum Pong, where $50 can become $20 or less, depending on how savvy you are). Their prices are pretty set. Sometimes they won't go down at all, but you can likely find it in the next shop over if that's the case.

To get your stuff home, just have the shop owner call a moto with a trailer if you can’t find a tuk tuk nearby...it usually cost me right around $5 to pile a tuk tuk full of stuff and an extra dollar or two to get him to carry it up the 3 flights of stairs for me. I live at the other end of Mao Tse Tung behind the Intercontinental Hotel, so you can determine how much you should pay a tuk tuk depending on whether your drive is longer or shorter than that.

You can have cushions made in either the fabric the shop has on hand, or fabric you purchase yourself. I had the second to last shop (I think it was) make me six big square cushions to sit on, six thin square throw pillows for my couch, and two small round cushions for my small round chairs…it put me out about $65, not including the fabric I purchased for $1/meter at Orrussy market. Those cushions are a lifesaver, I tell you.

Well, that sums up all the cane furniture shopping tips I have…please post any additional tips here!

Dealing with Oily Skin and Acne in Hot, Humid, Sweaty, Sticky, Dirty Cambodia

It didn’t take me long after landing in Cambodia to figure out that my oily, acne prone skin doesn’t mesh well with the climate here…and things went from bad to worse in a hurry. I have gone through a very long process of trial and error to discover what works. And lucky for you, I am willing to share this glorious revelation with all of you. I have been using my current method for over two months now, and have been enjoying near-perfect skin the whole time. I hope it works for you as well as it did for me!

Basically, my skin has dual personalities. It gets oily and shiny, but if I use a cleanser meant for oily skin, my face feels like it shrunk three sizes and can no longer smile. It gets flaky, dry spots and totally freaks out if I use anything too harsh. I now use a gentle cleanser meant for normal to oily skin by Oil of Olay and an anti-aging moisturizer.

The trick to dealing with the acne here is to constantly be exfoliating away the layer of dead skin on top. Otherwise, all the sweat and humidity and dust and smog and oil that build up on our skin throughout an average day in Phnom Penh gets buried underneath that top layer. For some reason, my face doesn’t like to shed the dead skin cells for some reason…so I have to manually force it. I have stumbled upon two secret weapons that have brought victory to the acne battle: the first is Tretinoin cream (otherwise known as Retin A or Renova, which is prescription-only and very expensive in the States) and microdermabrasion cream (which you can make yourself at home for cheap, otherwise will cost you an arm and a leg at the store).

I have good news about the tretinoin cream…I was shopping at a local pharmacy the other day, and stumbled across a whole shelf of it. It is the brand that comes from Singapore called “Stieva” and comes in a variety of potency…and the best part is, it’s only a little more than $7 bucks a tube. Hurray! I don’t remember the name of the pharmacy, sorry. But I’m sure they sell it in most.

You can read my article about how to make microdermabrasion cream at home here, and the article about how to use both products here. (Sorry, but I don’t feel like typing the whole thing twice.)
Just be sure to wear a sunscreen when following this method, otherwise some nasty burns are in store…since you are, in essence, peeling off the entire top layer of your skin.

Please let me know how it goes, if you decide to give this a try.

Authentic Khmer Recipes...A True Taste of Cambodia!

Ihave taken a significant amount of time over the past year collecting Khmer recipes from various friends and sources, and have compiled them into a cookbook, which you can download from this post. Part of the reason for this endeavor was because I thoroughly enjoy Khmer food, but don't enjoy the lack of sanitation where it's usually prepared. It's nice to be able to cook it yourself knowing that it's clean and won't put you in the bathroom for three days straight!I have organized this cookbook by various sections so you can pick and choose which ones you want.

The ironic thing about this is that I never cook at home anymore. So please, if you do happen to try any of these recipes out yourself, by all means post a comment and let us all know how it went.

Veggies and Tofu


Soups


Meat Dishes


Fish and Seafood


Sauces and Curries


Desserts

How Many Chickens Can YOU Fit on a Moto? (And Yes, Energy Drinks ARE an Appropriate Wedding Gift)

I spent fourth of July out at Kraing Tnong Province, finishing up a mural and attending the first engagement party I've ever been too...I have to say, the traditional fruit walk was quite the experience. A huge group was gathered at the groom's house, and each guest was given a big, tacky fake silver platter piled high with various gifts for the bride's family...mostly fruit but also tons of energy drinks wrapped up in a pretty ribbon (does anyone else find this odd?). I saw toddlers running around later with an energy drink in their hand. No comment necessary. So, we all get into processional form and begin the slow, prestigious walk through the village as the parade leader banged on a gong. It was quite the event...all of the villagers came out of their huts to observe the occasion.

Once we arrived, we handed off the "treasures" to the bride's parents and then was seated under the typical Cambodian "party tent." I've been to a number of weddings in Phnom Penh, but it's a whole different can of worms out in the province. Certainly an experience not to be missed...unless you place any value on your ear drums. They figured since they had paid the money to rent a sound system, it would be silly not to blast it for all it's worth. Of course, they had tables seated right next to the speakers, where I was lucky enough to be seated. My favorite sound: maxxed out, crackly speakers and nasaly high pitched Khmer singing all mixed together. It was shaking the table and glasses, it was so loud.

For the meal, I chose to pass on the fish after I saw the pond that it came from, and was a double party pooper when I passed on the liver soup, and opted for the veggie stir fry. I became disenchanted with "going local" long ago...all you noobs reading this, get your nose out of the air since it'll happen soon enough to you! True to Cambodian fine dining style, everyone threw there trash on the ground and under the table. I hope by the time I return home I haven't picked up some "new" manners along the way.

After the meal, I snapped a few pics of the lucky bride to be and then ducked out to get my stuff I left in the car a ways back. Later that evening I finished up the last few details of a mural I've been working on, and watched the girls prepare the traditional "cow climbing the mountain" dish...I can't remember the Khmer name. It was yummy! I stayed the night and had a surprisingly good sleep considering how hot it was, and this morning was very much looking forward to the tuk tuk drive back into Phnom Penh all by myself (I had a headache and was feeling the need for a "buffer"...anyone who's been living here awhile knows exactly what I mean.) Alas, somehow the memo got out that a tuk tuk was headed for Phnom Penh, and I was rushed to leave 45 minutes early (7:45 am, too early on a weekend for this barang)and found it bursting at the seams with six people waiting inside for me...backpacks and all. They were gracious enough to scoot over and give me a whole 6 inches of the seat.

The drive back was interesting, considering my earlier anticipation of a leisurely drive home all by myself. The girl sitting on the floor right in front of me was facing me directly. Whenever she got a phone call, she would scream into the phone apparently not finding it odd that this was taking place a few inches from someone's face. The girl on the other side, diagonal from me, kept leaning over everyone and patting me on the arm as I was trying to take in the pretty countryside...pat pat..."excuse me, sister, I want to practice my English with you...you have boyfriend? How old are you? You not married yet? Why you not married?" and an entourage of the usual personally invasive questions that are on the top of their list to ask. Of course, the whole time she is speaking, she has a mouthful of some unidentified orange food in her mouth, and I can't help but notice she's been chewing on the same bit for five minutes yet hasn't managed to swallow. I think after each chew, she opens her mouth wider.

About halfway into town, the girl on the floor's knee begins crushing my foot and I realize that the chair is broken, a metal prong is jabbing into my backside over bumpy potholed roads. The girl who still hasn't swallowed her food is now asking me if we are friends and if she can have my phone number (translates: will you please be my very own free private English tutor who doesn't mind getting 15 calls a day).

If it weren't for my headache and weird mood, I would have found this series of events humorous and even fun...but today it just wasn't. However, it was all worth it when a moto full of live chickens happened to drive by us slow enough for me to whip out the ol' camera and snap a few shots. I just can't believe how many chickens they have piled on there...I have to say, getting these photos justified the trials of my day. I have posted them here for your viewing pleasure. KFC, anyone?

Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay), Kep...Skip Sihanoukville and Visit Paradise for a Weekend

Most Tourists and even expats that I know head for Sihanoukville (Kampong Som) when they want to get away to the beach for the weekend. However, I find it too crowded, too noisy, and too full of obnoxious tourists fresh out the bar and looking to "chat it up" on what was supposed to be my relaxing weekend getaway. Not to mention how disgusting the beach is the day after Khmer New Year, literally lined with trash. There is a much better alternative if having seclusion, peace and quiet on a picture perfect beach are what you are after...Rabbit Island, or "Koh Tonsay" in Khmer, is where you need to be.

This tiny island is only 2 square kilometers in size, and just a 25 minute boat ride from the beach in Kep. There are about 7 or 8 local families who actually live on the Island, making their living from fishing and growing coconut trees. These families also make a little extra by renting out the thatched huts along the beach to any visitors that happen to stop by. At any given time, you are not likely to have more than 15 or 20 people to share the entire island with.

There are two beaches on this island, one of which you must hike to access (but is well worth the hike, not only for the gorgeous beach but also for the hike itself). The main beach is just as pretty as any postcard, with coconut palms lining the white sand, with lush jungle covered hills in the background. There is no electricity except on a generator from 6-10 pm, no motorized vehicles, no karaoke bars, no litter along the beach, just picture perfect, peaceful isolation.

The huts are fantastic if you like "roughing it" a little bit...when we got to ours, we found nothing inside but a mattress on a rustic bedframe and a mosquito net. The bathrooms are about a minute's walk behind the huts, and the "shower" is not much farther. The huts are up on stilts, and the whole thing is constructed of bamboo strips which filters in the light beautifully. These huts all cost $5-10 per night for a double "room."

The food is amazing, being fresh crab or prawns fried with famous Kampot pepper. The average cost is $5 per plate, which isn't cheap by Phnom Penh standards, so bring over an ice chest with your own food if you're on a budget.

The swimming is ideal, since the water is warm but not too hot, gentle waves and the entire beach on a gradual slope which means you can walk out very far and still only have it at your knees. Careful though, I stepped on a Sea Urchin (the non-poisonous kind) and if it hadn't been on my last day, would have ruined the trip! I suggest wearing some water shoes. Also, I am told that there are tons and tons of beautifully colorful fish around the rocky areas, which makes for great snorkeling...I wish I knew it when I was there! I will be sure to bring some snorkeling gear next time!

The hiking is an absolute must...we even lost the trail and got ourselves lost for a good hour or more, but we got to see some of the best scenery I'd ever encountered. You will encounter a mandrake grove growing in a "bog" (claylike mud that is almost impossible to walk through...I say "almost" because we walked through it. I don't recommend it.) There are local fisherman and kids hanging around this area fishing/farming seaweed and I highly recommend that you get one of them to paddle you to where the trail starts back up again. A little knowledge of Khmer here would help, but I'm sure holding up a few dollars and using hand motions while pointing to the boat will do the trick. Don't forget your camera, this hike is incredibly beautiful. You can also see some of the local people busy at their daily work, and their homes...great photo opp's.

Not much else to do in the day except lounge in the hammocks and read, nap or just enjoy the view...this isn't the place to come if you're after some wild nightlife :). At night, you can get a fire going right on the beach and do a traditional Khmer BBQ over the little coal stove, if you want. The sunsets I saw here were some of the best I've ever seen.

To get to Rabbit Island, just take a bus to Kep (actually, you have to take a bus Kampot, and whichever closest village the bus stops at, then take a tuk tuk over to Kep. Easy enough to arrange.) I would love to interject some commentary here on all of the cool things to see in Kep, but I'll save that for another post). It was the ultimate getaway of the French Colonists in the 50's, and the decaying villas lend an intriguing and eerie presence to the town. Anyways...back to the point. Once you get to Kep, you can arrange with any of the guesthouses along the beach for a boat ride there and back for around $10-20 return trip (per boat, not per person.) Or, if you speak enough Khmer, go to the Pier and try to arrange directly with the boat operator.

You can choose to go out just for the day and return to Kep for the evening, but it would be a shame to miss the beautiful sunset and the lovely dusk views of the island. Just don't forget your snorkeling gear!

Hurry and visit before development hits and this becomes the next Sihanoukville.

A Guide to Restaurants and Cafes in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

For anyone traveling to Phnom Penh, Cambodia, you will not be in want of great places to eat and drink. Here is a list of my very favorite ones and my menu recommendations.

Bistro Lorenzo: One of the best restaurants in all of Phnom Penh. Filipino and International food, all of which is delicious. They have a huge menu will all sorts of delicious courses. My favorites so far have been the creamy mushroom and wine soup, the tomato and basil gazpacho, a chicken dish covered in a white creamy sauce, and the mango crepes with ice cream. They have a great cozy atmosphere and the prices are very good for the quality of food. Very friendly staff as well. 092 867 901, St.63

Boat Noodle #1: A small restaurant with yummy and cheap Khmer food. I recommend the spicy beef and basil salad, grilled chicken (on a big spit out front), and the green papaya salad. 012 200 426, on the street right past Lucky Market on Sihanouk Blvd.

Boddhi Tree: Western style food that isn't the best in the world, but makes up for it in the atmosphere of the place. Tranquil garden setting, mostly outdoor seating. They have some good pastas and sandwiches as well as lots of vegetarian options. Bring a book to spend a relaxing couple of hours. 016 865 445, opposite Toul Sleng Museum

Café Yejj: A cool café with awesome food and drinks, and they always have the air conditioning on full blast. I like to eat here after shopping at the Russian Market (Psar Toul Tum Pong). They have a very nice art gallery on one side, and a fair trade souvenir and clothing shop on the other. I absolutely love their Baja Burrito, which is grilled fish wrapped in a thin tortilla with tropical mango salsa. When you first walk in, it might not be obvious that there is a second floor with more seating, but upstairs is where the air conditioning is. 012 543 360 near the Russian Market.

Chez Dim: I've never been to the restaurant but always ordered for delivery. Great pizza and recently they've added a small selection of Indian, Tex Mex, Thai, and Panini's. A great choice if you skipped dinner and then regret it around midnight after everything's closed...they're open until 2 am for delivery and they seem to do really well with not getting lost. My favorite on their menu is the Margherita pizza. 012 700 468

Chi Cha Indian Restaurant: This place serves 100% Halal Indian food and is absolutely delicious. It's in an obscure little hole in the wall location and doesn't look like much from the outside. But the food is awesome and the prices are unbelievably low. Everything on their menu is good. 023 366 065, St. 110 near the Riverside.

Comme a la Maison: French food in a really beautiful outdoor garden atmosphere. Prices are a bit more expensive here but doesn't break the bank. I like them for breakfast and lunch, and enjoy the quiche with coffee. They also have nice pizza and a great bakery too. 012 951 869, in the area where all the "foreigner" restaurants are behind Independence monument

Deli Café: Awesome Asian food at some of the lowest prices I've found in Phnom Penh. If you can get past the cigarette smoke, you'll love this place. Nice décor and air conditioning. One of my all time favorites is their fried pork ribs with sweet and sour sauce, only $3. Also, the beef stew with bread is amazing. They have really good noodle soups and a nice chilled noodle dish with basil and crushed peanuts. The coffee and fruit shakes are great, too. You can't go wrong with this place. 012 963 366, St. 202 Sihanouk Blvd.

Dosa Corner: Excellent Indian food in one of the most fun parts of town. A tiny little place with extremely low prices. I love the Rava Masala Dosa, and the vegetable pakora is to die for. They serve all sorts of delicious dips and sauces with each order. 012 673 276, St. 51 near Independence Monument.

Elsewhere: This place is amazing...not only for the food which is excellent, but even more so for the atmosphere. It is in a lush garden setting, with a large and a small pool. There are a few tables set up so that when you sit, your feet dangle in the water. You can choose a normal table or lounge on the oversized cushions. All sorts of great, Western-style fare and a huge list of drinks that you can't find anywhere else in Phnom Penh. Free WiFi too...a modern paradise, one of my favorite places in the city. 023 211 348, corner of St. 51 and 254 (right next to the Boom Boom Room.)

Equinox: A trendy gallery and restaurant that is great fun for people-watching if you sit upstairs near the balcony. Lots of things to do around this street too. They serve a goat cheese salad that is to die for, and if you love crepes with Nutella and bananas then this is the place to be. They have a lot of artwork on display by local artists. Before or after you eat, be sure to visit the Boom Boom Room across the street for cheap music and cool clothes. 092 791 958, St. 278 near independence monument.

Frizz Café: This place is great for traditional Khmer food. Great atmosphere too. I love the traditional Khmer "Amok" dish, and if you want something fun, get the "Volcano." You get thin sliced meats and veggies to cook over a small coal BBQ. They also have an all day cooking class in English. 023 220 953, St. 240.

Hara's Café: A Cambodian run café with lots of French influence, it offers both Khmer food and some great European food. I recommend the sweet and sour stir fry, the omelet breakfast, and all of the crepes...they have both sweet and savory. They also have some great souvenirs for cheap, such as Kampot pepper or raw sugar cane sealed in a cute little box, easy to fit in a suitcase. The staff here is just a few Khmer girls that run the place, and are some of the nicest I've encountered. 092 941 218, St. 450 near Russian Market.

Jars of Clay: For those days when nothing but French toast with lots of syrup will do, Jars of Clay is the answer. They serve a heaping plate of thick French toast, layered with sautéed bananas, and drenched in maple syrup. In addition, they have all sorts of homey cakes, muffins, pies and other bakery delights. They have an excellent breakfast and lunch menu that is small but everything on it is great. A local favorite is the toasted baguette sandwich with Mediterranean veggies. They are only open breakfast and lunch. You can find a large assortment of used books on the second floor. 023 300 281, St. 155 near Russian Market

Java Café and Gallery: I can't say enough about this place. I never get tired of Java, no matter how much I come here. Their California Salad with apples, walnuts and Blue Cheese is my lifeline on bad days. I don't think there is anything on their menu that isn't great. A great place for breakfast, since you can sit outside and look over the park. They serve western food and have great coffee. In addition, you can find one of the best art galleries in all of Phnom Penh here. They are constantly changing their display, and really put an effort into making the gallery the main feature (even their menu has prints of previously displayed works throughout). Many internationally recognized artists have displayed work here, as well as accomplished local artists. Highly recommended! 023 987 420, Sihanouk Blvd. almost all the way down to where it ends near the riverside.

Khmer Thai Restaurant: This place is a nicely decorated, air-conditioned haven with excellent staff and delicious food. Huge, well organized menu and beautiful surroundings. The staff is extremely friendly and the waitresses dress in traditional Khmer outfits, which is a nice touch. You can choose to either sit at a regular table or lounge on cushions on the floor with a low table. My favorites here are all of the curry dishes, the fried kale with tofu (you have to ask for the tofu, the menu only lists meat with it), cashew chicken, and fried green beans with garlic. 011 211 448, near Olympic Stadium.

Le Duo: If you're after Italian food with great ambiance, come here! The owner is from Italy, and the food is unbeatable. Absolutely gorgeous restaurant with a replica of the Sistine chapel ceiling overhead. All of the food is fantastic, but some of my favorites are the pizza bread with herbs, Plate of cold meats and cheese, raviolis stuffed with spinach and pine nuts, the Caesar salad, the pizza, and all of the desserts. There are too many good pasta selections to name. They have a genuine wood fired oven for the breads and pizzas. 023 991 906, St. 322

New York Hotel: One of my absolute favorites. A Chinese restaurant that has great dinner and snacks. My friends and I like to go together, order a bunch of different things and share. We always get the steamed pork and spinach dumplings which are a little bit fried just on the bottom side, fried green beans and garlic, prawns, and the best of all: the spinach flatbreads (like a thin tortilla with chopped spinach, browned a little on both sides). 023 214 116, on Monivong Blvd.

The Shop: Some of the best health-conscious food on one of the most pleasant streets in Phnom Penh. I love the carrot pumpkin soup, the grilled beef and parmesan sandwich on chapatti bread, and the huge display case of yummy desserts. 023 986 964, St. 240

Tamarind: Another of my absolute favorites. This is a Mediterranean style restaurant with rooftop seating. Absolutely beautiful, romantic setting. I love the tomato and feta salad, the tapas sampler, the steak, the pasta, and the couscous served in a clay pot. The desserts are wonderful too. One of the best places in Phnom Penh for a date. 012 830 139, St. 240

The Bachelorette’s Guide to Eating in Phnom Penh

For those who try to avoid street food and don’t like noodles (and if for you, like me, cooking means standing over a hot gas range on the third story with no a/c while being eaten alive by mosquitos) you might not be very motivated to cook for yourself after a long day at work. Eating cheap in Phnom Penh becomes a challenge for those who avoid street food, don’t like noodles or fried rice, and are trying to watch their girlish figure.

Well, you have a reason to rejoice, thanks to the Door to Door restaurant guide of places that now deliver, with full menus! Delivery service is a relatively new concept here in Phnom Penh, but is catching on like wildfire thanks to people like me. Even though most places say they have a $5 minimum order, they don’t all mean it. Java Express bakery and Café is one of them, and I order from them all the time. The Shop, another of my faves, only has a $3 minimum. Be sure to keep a copy of D2D at your desk. It’s a lifesaver.

For breakfast, I either skip it and have big mug of black coffee just like I shouldn’t do, or on better days I have a yogurt (the little square ones from Vietnam at Lucky are my favorite, they are around 30 cents each), cereal with canned milk (buy a whole case of canned milk for around $5 and keep them in the fridge. Yes, it’s pretty gross but if it’s ice cold and over cereal it’s at least tolerable. Good for cooking, too.) Regular milk goes bad before I can drink it all, which equals tons of wasted money. I also love toast and peanut butter or bagels and cream cheese (bagels from TT bakery are best - 012 374 128 for delivery), cream cheese you can find at Bayon Market on Monivong Blvd. near Psa Thmei). I tried the all natural, healthy peanut butter made here in Cambodia and sold at most supermarkets, but it was gross so I just buy the unhealthy and expensive Skippy instead. Fried eggs and bacon are good on Saturday morning, you can get real bacon at Dan Meats (51a St. 204, 012 906 072) you can also get it at lucky but make sure you are getting the kind that is imported and actually tastes like bacon, not a thinly sliced pork chop. Eggs are actually cheaper at Lucky than the local market, believe it or not…at least last time I checked.

If you are wanting to go out, I love the breakfasts at Jars of Clay (Cinnamon rolls, French toast, muffins….mmmmmm), Sisters Café (Omelet), Java Café (bacon and eggs, pancakes, good coffee), and there are tons more good ones out there but because I’m not much of a breakfast person I couldn’t tell ya. Also, if worse comes to worst just take an extra 30 seconds to grab a mini French baguette on your way in the morning (every street side noodle shop sells them) and keep some butter and jam on hand at your office.

Lunch: More and more these days, I end up ordering something to be delivered and end up working at my desk, but if I do chance to go out, it is usually to Hagar Chegnan on St. 163, just after Wat Sampeou Meas, where there is a small buffet that only costs $1.25 for a ton of food. They also have fruit shakes for only 75 cents. I also sometimes go to the Sovanna Mall food court and order stir fried chicken with Thai basil and white rice (Mo-un gee cha) for about $1.50. I also love the Taro shake, only 75 cents. If it’s salad you’re wanting, hit up Java Café (my fave is the California salad with chicken), Equinox has an excellent goat cheese salad, and the Shop has all sorts of healthy salads.

For Dinner, I will either go home and have quick and easy bachelorette solutions such as scrambled eggs, cereal, leftover rice made into rice soup with chopped veggies, or a quick stir fry if I remembered to pull the meat out of the freezer the night before…or, more often than not I just go out to eat with friends since that is just about the only form of a social life I manage these days. You can find a list of my favorite restaurants here.

Some of my favorite random things to eat are: boiled pumpkin cut into wedges, sprinkled with sugar and just a little butter; steamed corn from the street vendors; BBQ chicken at Orrussy market; frozen yogurt from Snow Yogurt across from Sovanna Mall; kettle corn from street vendors; dried jackfruit chips; tamarind fruit; sticky rice with mango; fried string beans with garlic. When dieting, I pretty much stick to tofu/chicken and veggies. Boring, I know, but does the trick. Well, that about sums it up…I hope you found this list useful. Please post your own favorite things to eat in Phnom Penh, and if you know of a good restaurant, spread the word!

My favorite WiFi spots in Phnom Penh

Stick it to the man and DON’T go to Café Sentiment where you will pay 5x the price you should for gross, watery coffee and a crappy connection. Here is a list of my favorites these days, based on average connection speed, atmosphere, good coffee/food and price.

T&Coffee has a huge, brand new location near Norodom. Easiest way to get there from the SW part of town is to head up Sihanouk Blvd, turn left right after the sewage pond/entrance to Olympic Stadium, turn right at the roundabout, go straight past all the grassy dividers, cross over a few streets going straight until you come to a huge, shiny brand new T&Coffee on your left hand side.

Blue Note Café is a brand new little hole in the wall near Bantey Slek, so all of us living on this side of the rice field no longer have to go to Evil Sentiment Cafe if we’re after someplace close and convenient. The Owners are a couple from America, and the wife is Cambodian. Nice people to talk to. They have quite a zippy connection (mostly because the memo hasn’t hit the streets yet and you’ll likely be the only one using it). They serve up some good fried chicken, spaghetti, pizza, and some Asian food as well. They have a full bar too, if you’re into that sort of thing. Just head in the Sovanna Mall direction on St. 205, cross over Mao Tse Tung Blvd. and continue straight until you come to it on your left hand side.

Park Café has also just opened a great big new location near Sovanna Mall, a cause for rejoicing by all who live in my neighborhood. They are also open until 10 pm, but they’ll be shooing you out a few minutes earlier than that true to Cambodian style. Their connection is fast as long as there aren’t too many people making video Skype calls. I recommend their coffee float. Near the entrance to Sovanna Mall, on Rd. 271 (the big road that surrounds the city.)

Corner 33 is a swanky little place that is relatively new, set just a little ways back from the river side. I’ve never more than a few people there at a time, although I haven’t been much since it’s quite a drive for me. Good food and coffee, but a bit pricy. Really cool place. I can’t remember exactly how to get there…look at a map.

Obviously, there are lots near Russian Market and Riverside but since I’m not a tourist I don’t go there often. One that I do know and like on the riverside is Café Fresco, but they are kind of expensive. I work in SW Phnom Penh so most of the places I listed are near me. I encourage you to post your own list of favorite free wifi spots in Phnom Penh or Cambodia, it would be much appreciated! (especially in Toul Kork, since I might be going out there a lot pretty soon, and I have no idea where the good wifi spots are.)

Backpacking from Phnom Penh to Mondulkiri on a Budget

If you are a backpacker passing through Cambodia and seeking a bit of adventure, don't settle for Phnom Penh...get off the beaten path and visit the remote province of MondulKiri! This Province of Cambodia is in the extreme east, bordering Vietnam. Even though this is the largest province in Cambodia, it is the most sparsely populated. It is growing in popularity with Eco-Tourists because of its lush forests and beautiful waterfalls.

Most of Mondulkiri's population is made up of Hill Tribes and minority groups, who live off the land. It is much higher in elevation, so it is a wonderful escape from the heat even in the middle of the hottest season. The lush, rolling hills dotted with pine trees and covered in a hazy mist in the evening make for some breathtaking scenery. Mondulkiri remains one of the untouched places in Cambodia, and has only a small handful of tourists each year. This is the place to go if you want to see some of the "real" Cambodia.

Some activities in Mondulkiri that should not be missed include:

A trek on the back of an elephant to one of the local waterfalls. This can be booked at any of the local guesthouses.

A day trip to visit the local plantations, such as coffee, pepper, and rubber trees and also to visit some of the hill tribes and see some trees that are hundreds of years old.

Either hike or take a bus tour to the local waterfalls, including Bou Sra, the largest of them all.

Getting to Sen Monorom (capital of Mondulkiri) from Phnom Penh can be a daunting task, and is not for the faint of heart. There aren't any busses that make the journey due to the terrible road conditions. Instead, you must book a bus to the town of Snoul, and then transfer to a taxi who will take you to Sen Monorom. One of the cheapest places to book your bus tickets from Phnom Penh to Sen Monorom is Hour Lian and is one of the most frequently used by backpackers. You can find the ticket counter on the right side of Monireth, a ways down from the Olympic Stadium if you are coming from Sihanouk Blvd. It is a tiny little run down building with a spray painted sign, and is easy to miss if you're not watching carefully. You should be able to book the tickets to Snoul for around $6 a person, unless it's during Khmer New Year (mid-April) in which case they will be around $15.

Once the bus drops you off in Snoul, you need to get to the place where the taxis are. Be sure to get there by around 1 or 2, at which time they stop coming for taxi pickup. Take a motodope to the pick up point. Just say "Knyome Chawng Mee-un Taxi Toe MondulKiri" (I want a taxi to Mondulkiri). They should have you there within a few minutes. You will see a bunch of fruit stands on one side, and a huge green sign that says "Mondulkiri" across the street. Just wait around by the fruit stands and a taxi will come eventually. Beware: this place is a hotspot for scammers and thieves. A popular trick they use on every foreigner is for the fruit lady to call up her husband/brother/uncle as soon as a foreigner arrives. He rushes to the place with his vehicle, possibly a truck piled high with cargo. He and his buddies will tell you that this is the very last taxi of the day going to Mondulkiri, and you are very lucky to get a place with him. The fruit lady will adamantly verify this. He will then offer you the discount fare of $50 or more per person. Of course you will decline this offer or try to bargain, but by this time other fruit ladies have called their own contacts and more start to show up. They will all stick to the $50 and up price, and be very pushy. At this point, it is in your best interest to just walk away. The best place to go is just across the street and stand under the big green Mondulkiri sign with your luggage. As soon as a legit taxi arrives, you will know it because he stands apart from the "vultures" and when you ask the price, it should only be $6-$8 per person if the taxi is full. Usually it is an old Toyota Camry. If it's not full, you will have to pay for the whole taxi, about $40 one way.

Be prepared for the wildest ride of your life once you are on the road...the way to Mondulkiri is one of the worst roads in Cambodia, although vast road work is being done and hopefully will make travel easier before too long. You will travel through lush jungle, so keep your camera ready in case you see any wildlife along the way.

Once arriving in Sen Monorom, you have a few choices as far as guesthouses go (some of which can be booked beforehand online). Some of the best ones are Arun Reas II, Nature Lodge, Long Vibol, and Mahogany Guest House.
Arun Reas II is on the right hand side soon after you enter Sen Monorom. Each room is a separate "cabin" and this place has a great restaurant. It is located on very beautiful grounds with a great view, and is only $20 a night for a large room with two double beds. Nature Lodge is a few Kilometers out of town, tucked away in some of the best scenery you can ask for. This is one of the quirkiest places and a great choice for "Eco Tourists." It also has the best western style food in town. Long Vibol has been a long time favorite with backpackers visiting the area, and Mahogany is said to have some of the best food. All of their prices are extremely reasonable.

As for dining, you can either eat at the guesthouse or go down to the "strip" (which isn't very long) for a small selection of restaurants, some of which are very good. This area is located at the huge lion statue downtown. You can ask your guesthouse to arrange a motodope for you, if you aren't in walking distance. Prices are a little bit higher than in Phnom Penh. For lunch, you can also go down to the local market place and eat where the locals do. You can find fried noodles and rice here, as well as boiled fertilized duck eggs, platters of fried insects, and many other local foods. Some of the specialties of Mondulkiri are avocado, honey, cashews, coffee, and rice wine.

Mondulkiri is truly one of the most beautiful places in Cambodia, and worth the difficult trip to get there. This is a place where you can have a true taste of adventure and see some of the "unspoiled" side of Cambodia that is as of yet uncorrupted by too much tourism and development. Choose Mondulkiri for your next backpacking adventure for the experience of a lifetime.


See pics of my trip to Mondulkiri (April 2009): http://cid-80dc2118167cdbf3.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Mondulkiri%20pics

Royal Palace Hotel is Reopening!

I have some great news! Royal Palace Hotel, which was shut down for weeks, just re-opened today. I've heard two different stories on the reasons for closing their doors...first story, it was related to a huge drug bust. Second version says that there were seven jewelry store thieves who had set up their main operation in a few of the rooms. Either way, the place was surrounded by over a hundred police and was immediately ordered to close its doors. Now, for those of you who've been living in Cambodia anytime at all, you know exactly how this translates: Innocent owners of hotel who had no idea what was going on behind closed doors in their establishment, are now being leeched for every cent they're worth by the Cambodian government and can't open for business until they pay X amount of dollars to corrupt officials. The drug lords/thieves who were the real criminals will be back on the streets in a few days after they've paid the judge a cut of the profits.

Royal Palace Hotel is one of the VERY few hotels on that side of town that is really cheap, really nice, and not full of prostitutes...not to mention the place I go swimming every night for only $25 a month. The Church/NGO I work with books our guests into this hotel all the time and when they closed their doors, we were all in a panic. Practically the only other nearby option that doesn't involve hourly rates and staff with sticky fingers, is the Intercontinental Hotel which is hundreds of dollars a night. Hardly doable for teams of 20 on a tight budget.

I've been getting a lot of emails from those of you who visit Cambodia frequently and like to use this hotel, wondering if this is true or just a terrible rumor...I am glad tell you that Royal Palace Hotel is now back in business. Yay!

Royal Palace Hotel: 93 Monireth Boulevard, Phnom Penh, Cambodia
023 884 823 royalpalace_hotel@yahoo.com

Hello from Cambodia! Tips and advice for travelling on a budget in Cambodia, written by a local expat.

Hello to all adventurers and backpackers interested in traveling through Cambodia! This blog is dedicated to the sole purpose of sharing tips, resources and experiences for those interested in passing on the "tourist scene" and getting a taste of the real Cambodia. Living as an expat in Phnom Penh, one soon realizes the value of shared experience and personal recommendations...after all, it can be hard to find the "street cart selling the best tasting fried crickets in all of Mondulkiri Province" on Google. The idea for this blog was born last April, when I was trying to plan a last minute backpacking trip from Phnom Penh to Mondulkiri on a whim and a very tight budget. I made tons of phone calls locally, but no one I knew had ever been there. So instead I spent hours and hours weeding through annoying travel agency tour ads on Google trying to get information and plan my adventure.
At other times, I have needed to book a guesthouse or hotel for a guest coming to town, and of course the ads aren't going to tell me that "exeptional value and friendly staff" actually translates as "hourly rates, lots of prostitutes." I thought to myself, how great it would be if someone living in Cambodia with first hand experience, would compile it all to share and make the world a better place! Well, the lightbulb came on and I thought that maybe if I get the ball rolling and share the bits and pieces I've got, others out there might be willing to contribute their own experiences as well.
I will post my own first hand accounts, links to my articles such as my favorite restaurants and other travel tips, and anything else that might be helpful to the cause. I also welcome anyone who has something to share that will help others discover the non-tourist side of Cambodia. Be sure to sign up to receive updates, as Cambodia is in constant development and information on things such as road conditions to certain remote areas might be outdated in a few months. Thanks for checking out my blog!