Monday, July 6, 2009

How Many Chickens Can YOU Fit on a Moto? (And Yes, Energy Drinks ARE an Appropriate Wedding Gift)

I spent fourth of July out at Kraing Tnong Province, finishing up a mural and attending the first engagement party I've ever been too...I have to say, the traditional fruit walk was quite the experience. A huge group was gathered at the groom's house, and each guest was given a big, tacky fake silver platter piled high with various gifts for the bride's family...mostly fruit but also tons of energy drinks wrapped up in a pretty ribbon (does anyone else find this odd?). I saw toddlers running around later with an energy drink in their hand. No comment necessary. So, we all get into processional form and begin the slow, prestigious walk through the village as the parade leader banged on a gong. It was quite the event...all of the villagers came out of their huts to observe the occasion.

Once we arrived, we handed off the "treasures" to the bride's parents and then was seated under the typical Cambodian "party tent." I've been to a number of weddings in Phnom Penh, but it's a whole different can of worms out in the province. Certainly an experience not to be missed...unless you place any value on your ear drums. They figured since they had paid the money to rent a sound system, it would be silly not to blast it for all it's worth. Of course, they had tables seated right next to the speakers, where I was lucky enough to be seated. My favorite sound: maxxed out, crackly speakers and nasaly high pitched Khmer singing all mixed together. It was shaking the table and glasses, it was so loud.

For the meal, I chose to pass on the fish after I saw the pond that it came from, and was a double party pooper when I passed on the liver soup, and opted for the veggie stir fry. I became disenchanted with "going local" long ago...all you noobs reading this, get your nose out of the air since it'll happen soon enough to you! True to Cambodian fine dining style, everyone threw there trash on the ground and under the table. I hope by the time I return home I haven't picked up some "new" manners along the way.

After the meal, I snapped a few pics of the lucky bride to be and then ducked out to get my stuff I left in the car a ways back. Later that evening I finished up the last few details of a mural I've been working on, and watched the girls prepare the traditional "cow climbing the mountain" dish...I can't remember the Khmer name. It was yummy! I stayed the night and had a surprisingly good sleep considering how hot it was, and this morning was very much looking forward to the tuk tuk drive back into Phnom Penh all by myself (I had a headache and was feeling the need for a "buffer"...anyone who's been living here awhile knows exactly what I mean.) Alas, somehow the memo got out that a tuk tuk was headed for Phnom Penh, and I was rushed to leave 45 minutes early (7:45 am, too early on a weekend for this barang)and found it bursting at the seams with six people waiting inside for me...backpacks and all. They were gracious enough to scoot over and give me a whole 6 inches of the seat.

The drive back was interesting, considering my earlier anticipation of a leisurely drive home all by myself. The girl sitting on the floor right in front of me was facing me directly. Whenever she got a phone call, she would scream into the phone apparently not finding it odd that this was taking place a few inches from someone's face. The girl on the other side, diagonal from me, kept leaning over everyone and patting me on the arm as I was trying to take in the pretty countryside...pat pat..."excuse me, sister, I want to practice my English with you...you have boyfriend? How old are you? You not married yet? Why you not married?" and an entourage of the usual personally invasive questions that are on the top of their list to ask. Of course, the whole time she is speaking, she has a mouthful of some unidentified orange food in her mouth, and I can't help but notice she's been chewing on the same bit for five minutes yet hasn't managed to swallow. I think after each chew, she opens her mouth wider.

About halfway into town, the girl on the floor's knee begins crushing my foot and I realize that the chair is broken, a metal prong is jabbing into my backside over bumpy potholed roads. The girl who still hasn't swallowed her food is now asking me if we are friends and if she can have my phone number (translates: will you please be my very own free private English tutor who doesn't mind getting 15 calls a day).

If it weren't for my headache and weird mood, I would have found this series of events humorous and even fun...but today it just wasn't. However, it was all worth it when a moto full of live chickens happened to drive by us slow enough for me to whip out the ol' camera and snap a few shots. I just can't believe how many chickens they have piled on there...I have to say, getting these photos justified the trials of my day. I have posted them here for your viewing pleasure. KFC, anyone?

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